industrial chevron coffee table diy

I've been a big fan of Ariele Alasko's work for some time now.  I love everything she creates, and have long wanted one of her pieces in my home.  I figured, since I can't afford one of her creations (shipping alone has to be crazy expensive!), I'd try my hand at emulating the look of her pieces.  I have plans for a couple more pieces similar to this one (I'm dreaming of making a pretty headboard for our bed), so this was kind of a test run.  I decided to go for a simple chevron design for my first try.  We've had the same Ikea coffee table since 2011, and I wanted something more interesting for our new living room.  

1x2 (I think I bought 6 8ft 1x2s, but depending on the size of your table you may need more or less)
stain (I used Varathane ebony + sunbleached)
wood glue
8 floor flanges
4 T's
4 6 in nipples
4 8 in nipples
16 10x 1" wood screws
miter box
power drill

I wanted a similar height and size to our old Ikea coffee table, so I made mine 24 in x 36 in.  I had Home Depot cut my plywood to that size (a nice option, if you don't have a saw).  The plywood is what you'll attach all your small 1x2s to.  For a simple chevron design, you'll just need to cut your pieces at 45 degrees, and then place the angled edge against the center line of the table to measure how long your full length pieces will be.  Once you start getting to the ends of the table, you'll start cutting them shorter to fit into the corners.  Just measure as you go and learn to love your miter box.  If you have a power miter saw, that would be ideal.  I did not, so I cut each one by hand. 

Once all your pieces are cut, you can stain them.  I laid every piece out on the table how I wanted them and then stained pieces according to how I wanted it to look.  I used a black and grey stain, but you can do whatever you like.  Stain them before you glue them down, so you don't have to deal with accidentally staining the strip adjacent.

When your stain is dry, glue your pieces down with wood glue.  I did each one individually, picking it out of it's spot, applying glue to the plywood and the bottom of the strip, and then sticking it down.  Once all of them were glued down I put some heavy books on top to help squish it together.

The legs are the easiest part.  Measure 3in from each edge on each corner and make a mark.  This is where the first screw will go on all our flanges.  Place the flange so you can see that mark through the screw hole and then mark where the other 3 screw holes are, so you can drill the holes where your screws will go (I'm not entirely sure this is necessary, but I didn't want any wood to split when I screwed the flanges on).  Repeat till you've got all your screw holes marked, and then drill them with a bit slightly smaller than your screws, you still want there to be enough wood for your screws to grab.  

Switch to a phillips head bit and screw down all your flanges!  Now all you have to do is assemble the legs.  If you want a shelf beneath the table, like mine, you'll need some T's to hold up the shelf.  If not, just get a pipe the length you want your table's height to be (minus a couple inches to account for the wood and flanges).  I got a 6 in nipple to go below the shelf and an 8 in nipple for above the shelf.  

You can make the shelf a couple ways.  You can measure the distance between the table legs (mine were 15 in apart) and make a sheet of plywood that width by the length of the top of the table minus 2 inches.  Your shelf will sit between the two pipes, resting on the T.  Or, you can do what I did and make your shelf wider than the distance between the legs, and cut notches out.  The former is easier, the latter gives you more shelf space, but is harder to make.  My bottom shelf is 21" x 33"

I was planning on making a nice edge to clean it up a bit with some 1x4, but it took me 3 months to finish to this point, so I'm calling it good for now.  I have the wood to finish the edges so it might happen eventually!  For now, I like how it looks and am happy to finally have it done!